October 11, 2008

Fresh Water White Angel Fish – Tropical Fish Care

angel fish

angel fish

Angel Fish are one of the most beautiful kind of tropical freshwater aquarium fish. They also have a strong personality and it is a pleasure to care for them. They like to draw in attention when somebody is nearby, or at feeding time. They are one of the first fish which were bring from America and they are very popular. They were brought to Europe around 1820 and in 1930 Angel Fish were bred in captivity in the joined States for the first time.

Sponsored Links Picture They have a quite round and flat body, but their dorsal and ventral fins are long, each is nearly as long as the body is. They can grow up to 15 centimeter vertically there are many freshwater variants like: 1) Golden – a light shade of yellow 2) Silver – silver organic structure and black vertical markings. They can be dark, light, solid, or broken 3) Koki.

Red-white with patches of black or gold markings. Young fish can have red markings under the eye 4) Smoky. – a shade of silver on one one-half, and a dark greyish or ebony on the other half. 5) pearly-white Gold – a dazzling shade of gold. 6) Black – solid ebony 7) Black.

Lace – black, but sporting wide light to dark stripes. 8) Zebra – a black body with white stripes 9) Marble. – marble-like swirls of silver and black on their bodies, black markings on their fins and some have golden patterns on their heads. 10) Blushing – a shade of white, and golden markings on their heads. Young fish can have a red marking below the eye 11) Blue.

Blushing – grey in colour, outlines in black. Young fish can have a red marking under the eye. Amazing on this variety is their ability to become darker or lighter according to how they feel 12) Veiltail. – very extended fins and they can be in many colour variants In. nature Angel Fish live in the Amazon River in southward America.

They can be found in bulrushes where they can find protection. They grow and live in big crowds but this fact doesn’t mean, that they can’t swim free. Because of their flat body they have no problems if they are constrict close to each other. They come out from the bulrushes when they desire to play. But when in that location is any sign of an foe, they swim back into the rushes.

There they are well protected, because it is like they are behind a fence, so the foe can’t get through to them. Angel Fish need a large tank. This is because they are quite big fish. The aquarium should be high, because they like to swim up and down, and they are tall too, so they require space horizontally, not just vertically I think. that a height of 50 cm is quite good.

If you want to breed Angel Fish, the minimum size of the tank for a breeding pair of Angelfish is seventy liter, but if you desire to leave the fries in the tank with their parents, it should be 110 liters or larger. Just imagine: 2 fully grown Angel Fish and 200 or 300 fries. Pretty big bunch isn’t it. The larger the tank the more security for eggs and young and comfort there is. Like all freshwater aquariums, an Angel Fish aquarium should have plants.

They improve the water by keeping it clean hinder, algae development, add oxygen into the H2O, and give shelter to the young fish. Angel Fish like broad-leafed aquarium plants because they like to lay eggs on them. Amazon Sword flora – Echinodorus are the perfect plants for an Angel Fish tank. The pH level should be between 60 and. ninety, .

and the temperature should be approximately 25°C High. temperatures cause rapid growth and early death Generally. speaking you should keep more than just a few Angel Fish in an aquarium. If there are merely a few fish, the strongest will make the others miserable and they will feel lonesome. But in bigger groups they will behave better.

Angel fish require a lot of space. particularly if you have more fish. Flake food is enough for Angel Fish, but it is better for their health to pitch them a variety foods. This is especially important when they are raising. They like live food like Adult Brine prawn, Black Worms, Mosquito larvae, finely chopped earthworms, and Guppy fry.

But they can also eat frozen Blood Worms, Brine Shrimp and others. They can be likewise fed dried foods like dried crabs. When genital papillae appear, the Angel Fish is roughly to spawn. These little nipples are used for depositing eggs and fertilizing them. Then they choose a spawning plate and clean it two or three days earlier spawning.

After a few days the female lays eggs and the male fertilise them. After few hours unfertilized eggs turn white and the parents will take away them. Afterward little Angel Fish hatch they should be fed with powdered flakes or dried blood worms for the first 4 weeks 4 times a day. After that time they can be fed with Guppy fry. It is a very nutritious food. Some say a varied diet is best for their development.

October 10, 2008

Aquarium Relocation Guide – Safely Move A Fish Tank

Moving your aquarium is no easy job. Here are some helpful tips to ensure the safe migration of your fresh H2O aquarium, and all of its inhabitants, to their fresh home. These steps should be followed wither moving your aquarium to another house or within the same house or like room. Before you start be sure that the fresh location for your aquarium is ready to hold the tank and that major power electric outlet are uncommitted. You don’t desire to move everything only to find out you don’t have major power or that someone else has already claimed that space in the fresh house for a bookcase.

Your aquarium should be the last thing taken out of your old house/apartment and the first thing setup in the new house/apartment. This way you can restrict the stress to your fish. What you will need: * Bucket or Rubbermaid container to hold fish during the move * extra buckets or Rubbermaid containers to hold H2O from the aquarium, as well as the Help and plants if you have any. (If your move require traveling in a vehicle it, is extremely recommended that these containers have lids. * Fresh de-chlorinated water, enough for you to do a large water change.

* Towels a note on water containers and their weight. 1 gal of water weighs just over 8 pounds (834 pounds. to be exact). This makes a single 5 gal pail 417 pounds of weight.

If you are moving to a new house you may be best served by placing bigger containers for water in the moving vehicle while they are empty and using a manageable size pail carried from the tank to the vehicle to fill up them. When you arrive at your placement do the same thing in reverse to fill up the tank. Any container more than 5 gallons will be difficult to carry and could cause injury. You could run tubing to drain the tank directly into the containers in the vehicle but, it has been pointed out to me by glmclell to be sure you do NOT use garden hosepipe to do this as they contain a number of materials to inhibit algal and fungal growth that will pollute your tank water. He suggests visiting an recreational vehicle or yachting store and look for FDA approved, drinking water safe hose.

When you’re ready to start moving the first thing you should do is remove the fish from the tank so they won’t be subjected to altogether the ruckus that will shortly follow. Get either a 5-gallon bucket or a big Rubbermaid container that will pitch your fish plenty room to move around freely. They should hopefully merely be in the container for a pair hr. (Of course, if you have a large tank or many fish, you may need to use more than one container) Fill this container with water from your aquarium.

Place the heater and air bubbler from your aquarium in this container as well. If everything goes well your fish will only be here for an hour or two but, be sure that if something goes wrong your, fish will be capable hold up in the bucket for up to a day. Place a loose fitting lid on this container to prevent your fish from jumping out If. you have plants in your tank you can place them in this like pail (providing some comfort for your fish) or you can place them in a separate bucket, be sure to keep them wet. Any tank decorations should likewise be removed at this point and can be kept in a heavy plastic bag, or, nevertheless another bucket disconnect.

Disconnect your lights, filters and any other equipment for your aquarium. It is best to keep any filtrate media at least damp. Most should be fine for an hour or two If. your move may take longer than that, you may wish to keep your filter media in something like a gallon size Ziploc bag with merely plenty water from the tank to keep it wet. Take the additional buckets or Rubbermaid containers and begin filling them with water from the tank.

I would recommend that at least half of the tank’s H2O be kept to be returned to the aquarium in its fresh placement. Doing so reduces the chance of re-start a cycle in the aquarium as well as reduces the risk of shocking your fish when they are returned to the aquarium. Be sure you have enough fresh water to make up for any water from the aquarium you’re not taking with you Begin removing. The substrate and placing it in one of the containers. If your tank has been established for a long time, the bottom layers of the substrate may be very dirty.

If this is the case utilize, some of the de-chlorinated water to rinse the substrate earlier returning it to the aquarium afterward the move. Don’t use pure tap water (if you have city/municipal water) as; the chlorine can kill the bacterium on the substrate that is significant to the health of your tank. Take this opportunity to rinse out your tank of any left over detritus or soil left o’er from removing everything else from the tank. Aquariums should NEVER be moved with any amount of water or substrate in them as they will be quite heavy and you can risk injury to yourself or harm to the aquarium from the shifting weight. Always move your aquarium when it’s empty of water and substrate.

Move the tank and altogether your buckets to the tank’s new location. Set up the stand and tank and be sure it is level and you have enough room for all your equipment behind and around the tank and stand. Begin replacing the contents in the tank interchange any rocks or ornamentation as well Begin returning the saved H2O to the tank.

Check for leaks!!! Picking up and moving tanks, especially old tanks, can separate their seams just enough to cause a leak. Replace any plants and move the heater and air bubbler from the pail with your fish to the tank. Top off the tank with your fresh H2O you already had made up. Check your tank water to be sure in that location was not a lot of ammonia released in stirring up the substrate. If your water tests high in ammonia, do a water change as essential to bring down the ammonia levels. Once

your H2O has been tested for ammonia, begin acclimating your fish to the tank’s water. There should hopefully be little difference in the H2O quality, but the goal is to make it as stress free of a change for the fish as possible . Connect the lights, filters and any other remaining equipment. Once your fish have been acclimated, return them to the tank . Check all your water quality levels the next 24-hour interval to be sure a fresh cycle has not started and that your fish and flora are not in danger.

  • Recent Posts

  • Categories